Trailer Work

[ksatter26]

I moved my converted boat trailer into the hangar/shop to make further adjustments for trailering the A/C.

The gear tread just fits on the converted trailer bed so I added rail/fences to both the Harbor Freight ramps and the trailer to keep the beast positioned and provide locations for straps and tie-downs.

A friend 3-D printed caps to cover the open ends of the wing spars for trailering.

I threaded the ends of two 3/16" steel rods for clevis fork ends to secure the folded wing in position. The clevis ends bolt to the rear spar tie-down tab and to the bushing welded to the airframe just forward of the vertical stabilizer.

The plan is to try loading and unloading the A/C tomorrow (Saturday); with weather-permitting plans to do some "test drives prior to transport to Caddo Mills Airport for initial taxi testing next week.

[LA F2 Flyer]

I like those printed caps for the spars. A nice touch.

[ksatter26]

Will post the 3D Print file and pix. The aft spar cap is held in place with a rubber band and a pop rivet.

[Badland-F5 Pilot]

Will post the 3D Print file and pix. The aft spar cap is held in place with a rubber band and a pop rivet.

Yes, please upload the files when you have time. I'd like to print a few and send them to Peer for testing to make sure my printer will print them correctly. Then we can offer them on the forum for Badland owners. Your friend must be pretty talented since this is the second printing he's done for you, is that right? We might need to hire him

Todd

[ksatter26]

My 3D printing buddy is out of town for eclipse viewing. He said he'd get the files to me on Tuesday (Eclipse tomorrow). I will give him some mods that should make the rear spar caps easier to use:

(1) reduce the length of the circumferential flange so that it clears the AN5 bolt. I trimmed mine with a fine hobby saw.

(2) I'll see if he can print the tabs which secure the rubber bands holding the cap in place. I used eighth inch pop rivets which I cut for this purpose. Ugly but functional and "Remove Before Flight".

(3) I did not have him print the holes for the AN5 pin for the fwd spar. I marked and drilled it to fit. I did not drill through both the top and bottom ... only the top ... your call.

98 cent "noodles" at WalMart (clerks had trouble fathoming "noodles"). I found them in the Seasonal section not anywhere near pool supplies. AS Peer has commented, get the small ones (interior ID about 0.6") so that you can stiffen them with 1/2" pvc.

I haven't tried trailering yet on my Texas FM (Farm-to-Market) back roads as yet, but I believe the rubber bands should be sufficient to keep the noodles in place.

Looks like my trailer lights are working fine, but I'll probably have to wait until Tuesday (eclipse again) to do the final trial load and finalize the tie-down scheme when I have "extra hands" again.

[Badland-F5 Pilot]

Awesome Kurt. Really really nice work.

Todd

[ksatter26]

Of course I haven't even tried any taxing yet, but just moving around the hangar that tailwheel always looks cock-eyed. I've tried a number of sized springs but can't seem to find the right spring size/length/strength combination. I bought several from the local "old-timey" hardware store, but nine of them seem to help the castering. I'm hoping that under power and with the big rudder it will work out. Taxi testing will tell.

Any comments from those taxing/flying?

[LA F2 Flyer]

Kurt, you may get to the taxiing before I do...if so, let me know how it goes. I am also wondering what my tailwheel is going to feel like, since I have very light springs on it.