Badland Part 103 Pilots and Builders Forum

Hi Kurt - what I did was lay the piece to be fitted over the fitment location, and use small strips of tape to mark the outside edges of where the glue lines needed to be. I didn't want to try to remove pencil lines, so this was the easiest solution in my opinion.

I also didn't worry about "painting outside the lines", because BAF provide plenty of glue, and it weighs very little. I often played it safe by slathering it on rather than trying to stay within a designated area. The glue doesn't show after heating and shrinking. At least it hasn't in my case.

LA F2 Flyer wrote: ↑Wed Nov 22, 2023 1:35 pm I also didn't worry about "painting outside the lines", because BAF provide plenty of glue, and it weighs very little. I often played it safe by slathering it on rather than trying to stay within a designated area. The glue doesn't show after heating and shrinking. At least it hasn't in my case.

Very good to know info! Thanks!

Why not test it with your colors first, on a small metal (or wooden) frame. It couldn't hurt.

I plan to buy a pair of these and see if they help on the difficult areas that need a bit of a tug to conform to the curves on some locations. Grab and tug oratex with one hand hold the heat gun with the other, use clamps to hold the structure in position as I tug away. They look like they have soft jaws too.

Less than 20 bucks on @m@zon - CANVAS STRETCHER PLIERS

Have any of you guys covered a balsa R/C Model airplane with covering film like top flite monokote or oracover before?

I've covered RC planes before, but it's been a long time. When I did the Oratex covering, I didn't use the felt pad when working curves. I just pulled the fabric taught with one hand and applied heat with the other. The felt pad was introduced later, to press the fabric down for the final bond while heating.

One problem you might run into with the canvas pliers is that the grip is rather wide, and the portion of covering where they would be most useful is in the corners, which may require a bit more precision than they offer. Just a thought (and a wild guess).

I would really like to know from someone besides Oratex, just how much weight savings there is by using Oratex. I've used Stewarts Systems for the last 2 aircraft and found it to be very lightweight. By using the light method, min coats and UV blocker, I added about 1.5 lbs to my tail assy with SS. Big disadvantage is you DO have to paint it. From what I've read and heard, that is the only advantage from Oratex. From the expense, issues with installation, few color choices vs. a couple coats of paint, my jury is still out on Oratex. A $50 paint booth (plastic sheeting and PVC pipe) one can paint about anywhere. Its non-toxic, water based. And all but the final coat can be rolled or brushed on. Someone educate me!

I CAN'T PAINT ... hence the switch from Stewart to Oratex. I used the dacron and latex paint method on my MiniMAX 1103R and it seemed to me that I spent more time on trying to get the paint to look decent than I spent building the A/C.

AS I've stated here, so far I have a love-hate relationship with the Oratex, but the no painting definitely out weighs the hate.

I can promise you that learning to use a spray gun is easier than building an aircraft. But hey, to each his own, Your bird, your money and your choice. I have about $2000 in my covering on the SR1 including the paint and equipment.

I actually enjoyed covering with the Oratex.

I found the glue application to be easy, and I like the fact that it's odor-free and water soluble, so I was able to cover several parts in the warmth of my living room.

I loved the idea of not having to paint, as it's something I'm not great at, nor can I be bothered to build (or find access to) a booth just for that purpose.

I had done the calculations regarding the weight savings, and since I was sweating every ounce of weight during my build, the added expense seemed worth it.

Of course, I can't really make a good comparison, since this is the first plane I've built and covered. I can't say my covering came out perfect, but I've seen a few legacy coverings out there that also weren't blemish-free. Overall I am happy with the result and happy with the product.

Covering is fun no matter what system you use. Everybody has their own reasons. Who am I to say.

Another useful tool for covering. (more model airplane stuff) Its able to apply heat directly over a single wrinkle and flatten it out.
Some even have a Teflon coating and slide real easy.
Its basically a small iron.
The pricey ones have a digital temp display.

When I start to use the oratex, I plant to do a test cover on a small test jig, maybe some small diameter EMT metal conduit to simulate airframe tubing. Then I can experiment to see how much heat and force the oratex 600 can take before it gets damaged or tears.

I am going with oratex, not for weight reasons, but for simplicity. I painted a Ford panel van once and did not enjoy all the priming and sealing, sanding and applying top coats. Too much solvents, dust, smell and mess for me.

I have one too. Very helpful for those hard to get to wraps around the tubing in the cockpit area. Order an extra cloth cover. The Sentinel heat gun is my most used tool. Good temperature control, 3 fan speeds. Also, as I posted, I purchased the curved nozzle for getting around the tubing. I also have theToko flat iron, but have not used it as yet, probably will when I cover the big open areas of the wings.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY KURT!

A wet morning here in Dallas, but wishing you the best today!

Happy Birthday Kurt, from also-wet Los Angeles! Wishing you the best!

Yes, Happy Birthday! A cold snow covered day here.

Hey, when one of you get the chance, how about putting up a picture of your wheel hub w/brake disc. I've got a set of mountain bike brakes to go on my SR 1 but still have to figure out a hub to work. Thanks!

Thanks for the Birthday Greetings. Just got in from a family outing to Pappadeaux's for the "traditional" shrimp po'boy. It ain't Parkway in New Orleans, but the best we can do in North TX.

I did manage to get the 303 remounted AGAIN today and with my THIRD battery it kicked over strongly and appeared to have good spark! A fine Birthday Present.

I did not add fuel to the tank and connect the fuel line, but I will tomorrow. The beast should purr like it did for London in Tampa and John0 Blanton in his shop in Denton, TX. Both those guys found no problems with the engine startup using THEIR batteries.

Turns out that NEITHER of my batteries has enough CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) to start the 303. That's the new, in-box Polini supplied battery and a Duracell "direct" replacement.

The new 85 CCA motorcycle battery seems to do the trick.

I hope to post a missive of a purring 303 tomorrow. Fingers crossed. I'll also search for brake hub/dusk pictures. I may have already posted some in my Build Log .... relatively early as I started with the wheels and brakes.

The Polini battery is min at best. You may have enough power for two or three attempts to start at best. And a 155W charging watts you'd have to run several hours to charge it up. And with the dual spark, one side will not work without battery power. So with a bad battery, you are single spark. Pretty common for dual ignition where one is electronic.

IT RUNS!!!!!!! Happy Birthday and Merry Christmas.

$60 Excide 85 CCA motorcycle battery did the trick ... the Cross reference (Duracell) on the Polini battery says it's for a wheel-chair ... not a lot of CCA required there.

Having trouble inserting pictures here ... I have a couple of wheel/brake pictures ... will post on my Build Log. The celebrate the running engine milestone.

Kurt sent me the 3D printer files for the Badland wings. I printed them fairly easily. They (as all 3D printed parts) need a little cleanup, but I can see where this would give a much smoother transition from the front of the ribs to the front spar.



I have a highly modified Creality 3D Pro, shown below, that printed these up. These are very handy for making pieces and parts for things you require. If you're any type of techie person, you most likely would have a love/hate relationship, as I do with mine. They aren't easy to learn, and there's a lot more waste than desired, but they can do the trick once you learn how to control the darn thing.


Like any part, there is some cleanup to do with these parts, but, being able to make them in the first place is well worth the time and effort. I plan to make many other parts (or beg for the design or printer files) from other users to use on my Badland.

Kurt, please be sure to post pictures of your wing once covered. My only concern is the heat required for the Oratex glue may cause a melting issue with the PLA material the parts are created from. Watch your heat when working around them.

Todd

I was assured that the plastic used for ptinting the contours has a significantly higher melting point than the melting point if the Oratex fabric.

Wonderful warm spell here in North Texas projected for at least a week or so. Hence, I'll hope to complete the covering of the stb wing in a few days. Pictures to follow.

Very cool Todd. I wish I had them before I covered my wing. The leading edge is a little rough, but not terrible. Of course my covering (with the occasional wrinkles) isn't helping either!

It looks like we are in for more rain here. Starting tonight. But hopefully the weekend gives me some clear work days to get more done on the trailer.

LA F2 Flyer wrote: ↑Wed Jan 31, 2024 7:15 pm Very cool Todd. I wish I had them before I covered my wing.

So there is an advantage to being way down the line to get a Badland

LA F2 Flyer wrote: ↑Wed Jan 31, 2024 7:15 pm It looks like we are in for more rain here. Starting tonight. But hopefully the weekend gives me some clear work days to get more done on the trailer.

Nice to hear you may get some time on the weekend to continue your work.

Todd