Build Log Discussion - Bruce_L

[Bruce_L]

Thanks for getting me set up as a new builder here.

I am the proud new owner of a Badland Aircraft 103.

I was originally going to purchase a Kolb Firefly kit from the factory about 2 years ago to get the folding wing feature. I do not have access to a hangar nearby and so I am going to be a trailer flyer it seems.

So when I finally get my funds in order to order my Kolb, they had just quit offering the kits for sale. This is at the peak of COVID too. What a blessing in disguise as that led me to do some searching and I happened upon a youtube video of Chris at an airshow promoting his aircraft. It turns out, that the Badland 103 is the plane I really wanted all this time anyhow. It is more of a real airplane with real airplane features. As Chris once said, "Its the most airplane looking part 103 aircraft out there" and I think he nailed it for sure. Not a bunch of aluminum tubes covered with an old parachute someone found laying around and old hangar one day.

So my build starts here.

I will start 1st by going through the entire build manual that I should get from the prining company soon. I understand that Chris has put in some newer information/updates in the newer version construction manual based on feedback from builders. I like this
approach.

I will post all of my questions and concerns here so I will go ahead and thank all of you ahead of time for peeking in now and then and helping to bail me out when I get stuck!

Not in a rush to get in the air as I have no flying skills other than a bunch of stick time with R/C airplanes and Helis.

Made arrangements for some local flight training and will get that underway soon.

I plan on going ahead and getting my sport pilot rating since I think I will be over the part 103 weight limit with the Hirth and the beefier landing gear.

I am also going to install a magnum ballistic chute (softpack) and pick up a few more pounds of availble weight as per FAA guidelines for safety equipment. But after the weight of the chute system, I will have a 9 pound weight buffer to play with in order to still stay in Part 103 territory. Don't think I will make it. I dont plan on adding anything else like tons of gadgets and gizmos to push me into being overweight. I have committed to using Oratex 600 as my covering material which should help out.

Any opinions on the weight situation??? Thanks Guys!

[Badland-F5 Pilot]

Thanks for getting me set up as a new builder here.

I am the proud new owner of a Badland Aircraft 103.

I was originally going to purchase a Kolb Firefly kit from the factory about 2 years ago to get the folding wing feature. I do not have access to a hangar nearby and so I am going to be a trailer flyer it seems.

So when I finally get my funds in order to order my Kolb, they had just quit offering the kits for sale. This is at the peak of COVID too. What a blessing in disguise as that led me to do some searching and I happened upon a youtube video of Chris at an airshow promoting his aircraft. It turns out, that the Badland 103 is the plane I really wanted all this time anyhow. It is more of a real airplane with real airplane features. As Chris once said, "Its the most airplane looking part 103 aircraft out there" and I think he nailed it for sure. Not a bunch of aluminum tubes covered with an old parachute someone found laying around and old hangar one day.

So my build starts here.

I will start 1st by going through the entire build manual that I should get from the prining company soon. I understand that Chris has put in some newer information/updates in the newer version construction manual based on feedback from builders. I like this
approach.

I will post all of my questions and concerns here so I will go ahead and thank all of you ahead of time for peeking in now and then and helping to bail me out when I get stuck!

Not in a rush to get in the air as I have no flying skills other than a bunch of stick time with R/C airplanes and Helis.

Made arrangements for some local flight training and will get that underway soon.

I plan on going ahead and getting my sport pilot rating since I think I will be over the part 103 weight limit with the Hirth and the beefier landing gear.

I am also going to install a magnum ballistic chute (softpack) and pick up a few more pounds of availble weight as per FAA guidelines for safety equipment. But after the weight of the chute system, I will have a 9 pound weight buffer to play with in order to still stay in Part 103 territory. Don't think I will make it. I dont plan on adding anything else like tons of gadgets and gizmos to push me into being overweight. I have committed to using Oratex 600 as my covering material which should help out.

Any opinions on the weight situation??? Thanks Guys!

You're very welcome for the setup Bruce. I think you're in the right place. Much of what you've posted for your reasons for going for a Badland Aircraft I've heard from several other builders. I was also looking at the Kolb, same reason, folding wings. Chris's comment about building a UL that looks and fly's like a full size aircraft was certainly another reason for my choice to go with him. Chris's comment actually was a big attraction for me. I like UL's, but I also wanted to fly a little further and land at some off site locations. The Badland Aircraft will do this. It's modeled after the Kitfox, a proven STOL aircraft. I've got some flight training, but it's 20 years ago so I will be getting training once I move to Florida later this year. You may squeeze by on the weight. Check with Peer. His F2 came in pretty low and with the Magnum chute you may squeeze by. However, by all means, go for your sport cert. I do like that 15Lbs soft pack chute Magnum offers, and their swap out with a loaner chute when repacking is needed is nice.

[LA F2 Flyer]

Hi Bruce - another chute option might be the Comelli. Their prices are reasonable, and they weigh a little less than the 15 pounds you quoted for the magnum (at 11 pounds), giving you a bit more leeway with that F23.

http://www.newmexicotrikes.com/Comelli/ ... hutes.html

I think I came in at about fifteen or 16 pounds under the 154 limit. That's with a Polini engine on my nose, which weighs in at around 36 pounds or so. So with the chute allowance, you may actually still make legal weight with the F23. You may also want to explore digital gauge options to keep the panel light. That may save a pound or two here and there. I actually went with steam gauges - and as mentioned I am well under 254. If I can think of anything else I'll mention it here.

Just try to build as light as possible as you go, without compromising safety, of course.

Like you, I am thinking a Sport Pilot certificate may not be a bad thing to have!

[Mountain Cat]

Which polini do you have? I have a PPL and dropping to LS. Really don't plan to fly anything above Light Sport anymore. In reality, Pt 103 is even better!

[LA F2 Flyer]

I have an aircooled Thor 200 Evo I picked up from Chris after he pulled it off one of his earlier builds. I had posted on another thread about jetting issues. I am having trouble determining what the static thrust should be.

[Bruce_L]

Got my builders manual in the mail today.

Its a nice, well produced color construction guide.

I am a bit concerned about setting up angles, wing pivots and struts.

I am sure it will make more sense once I have the parts/assembly in my hands.

I will start out by varnishing the wooden ribs, seal out moisture. Protect and seal the wood.

I understand the Oratex water based glue soaks into uncoated wood to the point where it penetrates the grain and then there
is not much glue on the surface of the wood for the covering material to bond to when heated.

[Mountain Cat]

My advice is to tell you to read the manual several times and build the plane in your mind a couple times before you do any actual work. A lot of builders earn a master's degree in turning expensive metal into worthless scrap by jumping in quickly. Just my worthless opinion after 40+ years as an A&P>

[LA F2 Flyer]

Bruce, good idea to seal the wood first. Once I did so the glue was as effective with two coats as it was on the bare metal.

[Badland-F5 Pilot]

So there are many different methods of sealing wood.

First question, is an oil based or water based sealer best to use? I would think oil based would be preferred for sealing, but it may cause issues with the glue adhesion?

Second question, many times when people talk varnish, that can cover many types of material including polyurethane, lacquer, stain, shellac, and more.

A discussion I found of interest (https://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/show ... hp?t=30426) covers many of the above mentioned but seems to come to the same conclusion as most conversations - personal opinion. I've always liked polyurethane because it's a plastic. The problem is that it also has greater weight than other sealing methods.

So what is the most common material used?

Todd

[Bruce_L]

Got all the wood sealed on both wings. Used Miniwax Polyurethane, and it dried really quick too. I sanded a slight radius on the outside edges of the outermost rib flat capstrips so as to eliminate a sharp 90 degree edge that will be prone to damage when folding wings or just moving the plane around in general.It will also let the covering shrink better at that location. As a curiosity, I weighed each wing at this point and as they are still incomplete wings, ribs and spars only, and each side weighs in at 21.6 pounds. Identical. Good. No issues with an imbalance situation, I am also taking the advice I read here in the forum and not putting covering on anything until I get all the fitments and alignments complete. Still not sure what color scheme I am going for any how. Too bad Oratex doesnt come in Kawasaki Lime Green.

[Mountain Cat]

Just for a guide, my Skyraider wings weighed 38 lbs each with ailerons and flaps installed. No wing tanks, covered and painted, complete.

[Mountain Cat]

Glad to see you getting started! Building a plane, old timey music and a coffee pot, don't get any better!!!

[Badland-F5 Pilot]

BIG COFFEE POT!

[LA F2 Flyer]

Would love an update on the build...as well as how many pots of coffee have been consumed by this point.

[Bruce_L]

Today was landing gear work day. I opted for the cabane spring type gear and the larger ribbed tires. This should help out on rough grass fields and also allow for more prop diameter capability. I got one gear leg mounted. The alignment of the holes is pretty good. Chris has jigs for everything. I did have to use a round fine tooth file to clean up some of the powder coating and a bit of material from one of the mounting brackets. It took a while as I only took off a small amount at a time so as not to open up the holes too much. The supplied bolts are predrilled for safety wire and I somehow still own my safety wire pliers from my motorcycle road racing days from a long time ago. I am amazed at how strong the AN type bolts are. Main gear bolts are only 3/16" dia.

Before that task, I started assembling the 2 piece plastic 6 inch wheels and tires. (Asuza brand) The tires are a challenge for sure. The rubber bead does not want to slide onto the rim at all. I finally took the 2 wheel halves apart and used some dish soap and stomped the tire bead onto the rim after using a Dremel tool to take the sharp plastic edge of the inside of the rim where the 2 haves meet inside. The tires are shipped really flat like how you would stack plates and and this makes them hard to work with. So, before I left today, I put the innertubes in each tire and inflated them to spread
out the carcass. They really spread out a lot with only about 5psi in them. The tire spec on the sidewall states 20 psi max. These might be soft enough to act a some suspension for some of those beginner landings that I will dread having to mention here!

Any hints or tips on how to get the 2nd half of the rim mounted onto what I started. I know I will need to deflate the tube 1st, its in there now just to spread out the tire. One problem may be I am doing this in a cold area and the rubber is not very elastic as so.

These tires are a lot smaller in diameter than a motorcycle tire and my tire irons are about useless.

I really enjoy driving to the airport and getting something done each day, no matter how small an accomplishment, one step closer to getting off the ground.

[ksatter26]

Bruce,

If you've read my build log you know what a horrible time I had getting the split rims, tubes, and tires together. I took mine to 3 different local tire shops. One shop got one assembly together and managed to pinch three holes into the other tube in locations near the stem that could not be patched. They finally refunded my $$$s and refused to try again with another tube from Wal-Mart ... the only place I could find the right size tube with a 90 degree filler valve. The 2nd shop managed to ruin that replacement tube as well. Finally a 3rd shop suggested a wheelbarrow tube with a larger inner diameter. Thus solution worked. The entire exercise cost me probably around $100 and about a month.

Also in my Build Log note the use of a 5/8" id bushing spacer (as I remember) on the axle providing a slightly wider (more stable?) track.

Chris has done a great job on the kits and is very helpful. Even as a one-man shop dedicated to quality, he's extremely responsive.

I'm getting close to "finishing" ... into Oratex covering now and looking forward to re--installing my 303 firewall forward and starting it up. So, feel free to ask as may questions as you want here, i get great help from other builders. So very thankful ... playing it forward, I hope.

[Mountain Cat]

I had the same trouble with my one piece alum wheels, also. Bought a Harbor Freight small tire changer(35 bucks) and once I figured it out, really slick. The plastic wheels work pretty good, but if you are going to do some off airport flying, especially in cold weather, you will break one, maybe. Save your pennies and someday buy a set of alum rims. Not much different in weight.

[LA F2 Flyer]

I actually didn't have too much trouble mounting the tires on the split rims. I left the tire slightly inflated...an old trick to keep it from pinching between the rim halves.

The only issue I had was aligning the bolt holes after I had the rims together...it's a tight fit so spinning them became difficult. I had to split, realign and then put them back together a few times before I had it right. In retrospect, the trick may have been to set a long bolt through the holes WHILE assembling them to maintain the alignment.

[Bruce_L]

I like the LONG BOLT idea. Thanks.

I think everyone building a Badland should start on the wheels 1st and here's why:

If you can manage to put two plastic wheels together without going into a psychotic rant or wild rage, you can build the rest of the plane in your sleep!

Hope I never pick up a nail in a tire !!!!

[LA F2 Flyer]

Haha, a very good point! I started with the tires purely coincidentally. It happened to be the smallest thing I could build in the living room, and all of the parts were easy enough to find in all the boxes.

[Bruce_L]

Today I mounted the right hand landing gear leg. Waiting on cabane gear springs from Chris.

After that I started trial fitment of the elevator to the horizontal stab. On all three hinge locations, I could not get the clevis pins to slide all the way in. At first I though it was an alignment problem with the tubing used to make the hinges. After looking inside the tubing with a flashlight , I could see where there was some stray metal sticking out just enough inside the tubing for the hinge to prevent the clevis pin from passing through. Turns out, this is a great discovery. Here's why, I figure if there is metal coming into the I.D. of the tubing from the welding process, then that means the person welding obtained good penetration on that weld. Good penetration means that is a strong hinge and I want that on my plane for sure. To fix the problem, I used a small round metal file, a bit over 1/8 inch in diameter and filed for quite a while until I could get the clevis pin the slide all the way through. I wrapped part of the file with masking tape to prevent removing any metal from the tubing adjacent to the one that needed work. It took a while to do all 3 elevator hinges but before I left the hangar today, I had the elevator connected with all 3 hinges. No slop or free play anywhere. I am glad I did this before I painted everything. One tool that is a must have for this project is a decent pair of saw horses.

Question: Does the control horn for the elevator push rod point up or hang under the stabilizer? Couldn't find a picture anywhere for reference.

My tires have puffed out pretty good with the tubes inflated so tomorrow I try to get them mounted.

Only one cup of coffee today...

[Badland-F5 Pilot]

You're making great progress. Only one cup of coffee...let me guess, a 48oz mug and a double brew for that extra caffeine kick

Enjoying your posts, attitude when things don't fit perfectly, and solutions to resolve the problems.

Todd

[LA F2 Flyer]

Hi Bruce - unless Chris changed the design (which I doubt) the elevator control horn should hang under the elevator. The easy way to check is to eyeball the alignment through the pushrod tube guides to see roughly where the pushrod tube ends up at the tail. (I actually slid the pushrod tube through just to see what the alignment would look like - it also allowed me to note which side of the horn the tube is fitted to.)

[Bruce_L]

Thanks LA F2, you were right. It hangs down like you said. The aluminum pushrod tube actually skews to the right to pass through the rear fuselage tubing. The welded in round bushing to support the elevator pushrod at roughly its midpoint is even canted a few degrees to the right.

Mounted the rudder today with zero issues. I needed that!

Struck out again on the tire mounting again today. Going to try the Harbor freight small tire machine next I suppose.

Have a problem with the alignment of one of the support tubes for the flaperon bellcrank vertical bushing. The bushing slides into the top guide tube smoothly but misses alignment with the bottom support tubing by about 3/16 inch. Too much to fix by just filing off material. Can't flex anything there enough to resolve the issue. Anybody encounter this? Any suggestions?

The bushing for the elevator control reverser mechanism fit fine with just a little clean up. Its similar to the setup for the flaperon bellcrank.

I then started poking around to see how the flap handle mechanism works. It has a pretty simple position hold mechanism but looks different from the orange one in the manual. Mine one has detent notches on both sides of the lever, possibly an improvement of the original design.

Waiting for the rain to go away to get some painting done. Some of my metal parts have been out long enough to get some surface rust here and there.

Gonna use the white vinegar soak trick to clean them up and then at least shoot some primer on the parts.

Not working on the plane for the next few days, other chores are calling my name.

[LA F2 Flyer]

Hi Bruce - glad to hear you sorted the pushrod tube alignment! One problem down.

Nice to hear that the rudder mounted without issue. I had to do a bit of filing on all of the hinges, but that was to be expected (and is mentioned in the manual, as I recall). In almost all cases the powder coating needs to be removed from the inner walls to get the bushings to fit. I actually used gentle persuasion with the appropriate sized drill bits where I could.

What size wheels are you fitting? I don't recall that much of a struggle with fitting mine. I may have just gotten lucky.

As for the flaperon bellcrank vertical bushing, is the bushing sitting upright when fitted into the top sleeve? If both sleeves are slightly misaligned (easy to do with welding heat applied - ask me how I know!) the total alignment may seem further off than it really is. Perhaps massaging both the top AND the bottom sleeves will allow the bushing through? Can you post a few pictures with the bushing in place?

The detent notches on both sides of the flap handle sound like an upgrade by Chris, giving it more structural support. I also noticed in a recent photo of one of his ULs that the detents are sloped (or graded) on one side. I am guessing this allows you to pull the lever up and let it lock into the first notch. Mine is the older style, with straight cut detents. I may modify mine to the new style. But first I'd be curious to hear from Chris if he finds it to be a great improvement. As for the "flap actuator" itself, it's really genius, isn't it? So simple yet effective. I still struggle to wrap my head around it - I understand why it works, but can easily lose touch with HOW it works.

However, be warned that the further you set the flaps, the greater the aileron throw diminishes.

At any rate, looking forward to more progress and posts on your part. Hopefully the weather cooperates soon. We are expecting rain here today and possibly through the weekend. While it will keep me from working on the bird, it'll be a nice change of pace from the usual Cali weather!

-Peer

[Bruce_L]

Talked to Chris this afternoon and he had a possible solution to tweak the alignment issue. Use a big rod or screwdriver and move each to the correct direction to split the difference of offset present. I have a huge old phillips driver with a huge shaft that should do the trick. Maybe even apply a bit of heat 1st.

Picked up a harbor freight mini tire machine and plan on bolting it down to a trailer frame and getting some leverage on the problem. Trailer is heavy steel and should make a sturdy work platform so I can get some force going without scooting the workbench all over the shop.

[LA F2 Flyer]

I would avoid heating the metal to make the move unless you have to. Heating typically weakens the metal, correct? I would save that as a last resort. I realize it's not a particularly stressed part of the airframe, but better safe than sorry, I always say.

Let us know how that tire machine works out!

[Bruce_L]

Tire size is 15x6. Ribbed tread pattern. 20 psi max pressure

[Badland-F5 Pilot]

I've got the 22-850x6's listed on my kit. I wonder if I'm going to need to find a hot black asphalt road on a 90+ degree day to set them on for a few hours so I can mount them? We shall see!

Todd

[LA F2 Flyer]

Now I feel inadequate with my little 11s...

[Mountain Cat]

It's not the size that matters. Tires!!! Tires!!! boys! You have to land like a bird with sore feet.

[Badland-F5 Pilot]

It's not the size that matters.

That's NOT what she said

[Bruce_L]

Summit Racing Equipment has a big selection of ribbed low pressure tires for 6 inch diameter wheels. They carry the Carlisle brand which is the same brand of tire that my older brother used in his racing go-kart days in the 70's They even have a slick too.

Sadly, you still get the pleasure of mounting them yourself.

[Bruce_L]

About $31 each

[Badland-F5 Pilot]

At least we won't be paying full size STOL aircraft prices! I've seen some of those go near a grand for each tire. Talk about ouch!

And not forgetting to mention shipping which has also skyrocketed.

[LA F2 Flyer]

I considered going larger but I think I am near the weight limit already. I can live with what I've got.

I guess I will have to! Haha

[Badland-F5 Pilot]

I considered going larger but I think I am near the weight limit already. I can live with what I've got.

I guess I will have to! Haha

That certainly is our Achilles Heel, our max weight limit. However, the 303 or the larger wheels, I would have made the same choice. That engine is going to be so much fun. Plus out where you'll be flying, larger tires aren't going to make a difference. In Florida I may need something to float on

I checked with Chris about the powder coating. Since Titanium rust is clear and actually seals the metal, powder coating or paint is not needed. That'll save me a little weight. As has been mentioned, take care of the ounces and the pounds will take care of themselves.

[Mountain Cat]

Nothing says poor workmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

[Bruce_L]

CONTROL STICK QUESTIONS ---So my kit came with a piece of tubular aluminum for the control stick. It is drilled at one end but rather close to the edge of the tubing. I could not find any information in the build manual on the dimensions for where the hole needs to be for the pivot as well as the outermost hole for the pushrod output rod to the elevator reverser mechanism. Not sure where to drill out the tube. Any pictures or chicken -scratch drawings would be appreciated.

Also, how tight does the nylon block (big hole about 1.3 inches) for the stick pivot fit onto your metal control stick holder/pivot? Mine has about a 1 to 2 mm gap between the two as it rotates. Is this too much free play?

Lastly, where do you set up your stick for the neutral elevator position and where would you reference that measurement from? Zero stick for ailerons is a no brainer since its centered left to right.

Stay tuned, I am going to have a lot more questions.

I appreciate all the feedback for sure !!!!!!!!

[Mountain Cat]

As for myself, I like a little friction on my stick (any aircraft). The block should be snug and not loose. You can lube the block and tube to make it move smoothly. As far as the stick position in netural, I like it in a comfortable position while flying. But make sure you have the proper deflection up and down though. Sometimes the up and down deflection will dictate the center position. Generally you will have several more degrees up than you will down which is normal. I think my SR1 is 30 deg up and 20 deg down. I re-bent my stick to make center elevator where I wanted it. I prefer to build the airframe and rig it, and then tear it apart and cover it.

[LA F2 Flyer]

Bruce, is the drilled end of the tube for the control stick machined, or just flat cut with a hole in it? And can you provide a picture? My kit had a raw tube for the actual control stick, and a machined piece for the bearing and pushrod as well as the pivot point, but the design may have changed - my kit is likely a few years older than yours.

I can certainly provide a few pics of mine, but I actually had a machinist neighbor create me a new one. As I recall, the stock setup allowed the head of the bolt that holds the pushrod bearing to bind against the inside of the control bracket. I likely could have filed things to fit, but my neighbor offered a new piece and I accepted.

The stick location should obviously allow enough travel is both the up and the down direction. Actual stick location is at your discretion. As MC mentioned, you can always bend to the stick to get it where it's most comfortable for you.

As for the nylon block, there shouldn't be any play there as I recall. Let me check my setup in the morning and see if there's a reason the block might have a larger inner diameter than one would expect.

[Bruce_L]

After a few days to take care of some family business I got back to work today. Managed to get one tire mounted but I have a leak in the tube after all that work. I am sure I pinched it somehow in all my previous attempts. Oh well.

I had success with getting the bushing for the flaperon bellcrank to fit after some filing of both the upper and lower mounting tubes. The advice here on this forum has been helpful for sure.

I have a question regarding the control pivot linkage rod, that goes from the control stick pivot to the flaperon bellcrank to the left. My linkage is a hexagonal aluminum piece with regular and reverse threaded holes at each end. (see picture) When I test fit with the rod end bearings (with the control stick centered L-R) the bellcrank is offset from neutral about 10 -12 degrees. The linkage in my builders manual looks different too.
(page 56 , 2020 manual)

The aluminum piece is so long that when I screw in both rod end bearings all the way, there is no room left for adjustment.

Any ideas anybody? Are the internal threads in the hex piece long enough so I can remove some of the aluminum to make the linkage shorter?

Anybody have a picture they can upload? As always, thanks for the views and the suggestions.

[LA F2 Flyer]

Interesting...I wonder if the machined groove is meant to provide a guide if you need to cut the aluminum linkage down to fit?

I would test to see how deep the threading goes. Perhaps you could take a piece of safety wire (or a narrow gauge paper clip or something similar) and bend the last millimeter 90 degrees at the end. Gently drag it down the side of the threads and see how deep it goes. Measure that against the bearing thread and see if you have enough wiggle room to trim the linkage down.

I may be looking at an earlier manual - page 56 for me is for the brake installation.

Keep in mind that I had a custom lower control stick pivot created, but it didn't affect the rest of the geometry. Here you go!

[Badland-F5 Pilot]

That I know of there are two different types of barrel adjustments. One is the type you appear to have. This type, the thread normally goes all the way through, but not always. The other type, the threads only go in about an inch but the rest of the barrel is flared and larger. These do not have threads all the way through.

Peer's method for testing is a good and quick one. Another is to make a trip to Home Depot, Lowe's, or Ace Hardware's bolt section. Find same thread and size bolt, but longer, screw in until it stops, if it ever does. Nothing says you have to buy the bolt

[LA F2 Flyer]

"Nothing says you have to buy the bolt"

You sneaky devil!

[Badland-F5 Pilot]

I have a missing nut on my Chevy Avalanche's anti-sway bar. I can't take the sway-bar off the truck. Home Depot told me to please remove my truck from their store! Lesson - the trick doesn't always work!

[Bruce_L]

La F2's (is that Peer? What do I call you?)) two pictures he posted are worth 10,000 words to me.

Is is too late to request some pictures of some other items/mechanisms? I am not sure what's covered up with oratex at this point and out of sight.

Some items I could use some visual clarification on are:

1. What the rivets for the aluminum trailing edge look like in place- Did you have to make a splice to complete the T.E. for the entire span?

2. What did you do to the trailing edge stock to adapt fitment at the plywood rib locations (cutting/trimming or flattening the metal?)

3. What the connection of the two control cables looks like at the location where the cables connect to the flaperon mechanism at the seat frame
area.

4. A picture of how you mounted the flaperon cable bracket to your wing.

I know I am jumping around on the build here but I am trying to make mental progress any where I can as I figure all this stuff out.

I want to get as much built as possible before the brutal summer heat arrives here next year.

I am saving the summer for covering, taking advantage of all the free heat available here in the summer!

Everything I am doing is just trial/test fitting before I commit to drilling-riveting- threadlocking anything.

Has anyone considered using small threaded fasteners (8-32 perhaps) with /washers/locknuts instead of rivets in the plywood for attaching the
flaperon mounts on the wing ribs?

Not sure what king of stress load is placed on the rivets in wood while in flight. Also, these are impossible to inspect in the future once the wing is covered. I know this is a weight penalty item for sure if done with bolts and nuts.

Once again thanks for all the great feedback here!

[Bruce_L]

Here is a picture of the mystery ????? hole at the end of the tubular control stick I asked about earlier.

I think it is the location where the tubular stick connects to the aluminum pivot block.

Mounts the stick to the aluminum pivot block with the small AN bolt pictured.

Middle hole is the elevator axis pivot, rightmost hole goes to the rod end bearing to the elevator reverser pushrod.

[LA F2 Flyer]

Hi Bruce. Yep, I (Peer) am LA F2 Flyer...Weird name, I know. haha

Let me see if I can dig up any pictures of the various things you are asking about.

As for your pics, you are correct, the bolt hole in the stick is for the bottom end, to mount it to your pivot block (using the AN bolt you currently have IN the pivot block).

The rivets are fine for the flaperon brackets. Remember, these aren't fast planes. I covered mine with Oratex, although I've seen others cover first, then drill and mount the brackets. I preferred to mount them first, since it's kind of a precision job in my opinion.

I had to overlap the aluminum to cover the entire TE. I think it overlaps an inch or so, and is riveted together at that point.

This pic is a bit fuzzy (sorry) but might help with the flaperon cable routing:

For the trailing edge where it meets the ribs, I bought a crimping tool (I think it's called) to flatten the metal. Example (on the flaperon in this case):

I'm going to have to poke around under the Oratex on the trailing edge to remind myself what I did there in terms of rivets.

As for the wing end of the flaperon control cable, spend some time puzzling over this before you cut anything. This felt like the most complex part of the build to me. I made sure to mount the bracket on the inboard side of the rib, since I didn't think the cable would flex enough to meet the bracket on the other side of the rib (since it would need to be run THROUGH the rib).

I don't have any pics immediately handy of this, but will keep looking!

Hope all this helps, at least a little bit!

[Bruce_L]

Today I met a buddy at the airport who needed a place to store his plane for a few days while he is relocating to a new hangar space.
It is a Challenger 1 with a 40hp Rotax. Paint is Glidden Gloss latex, applied with a Wagner power painter from Home depot.

So while I waited for him to land, I worked out some details on the flight controls. Mostly getting setup right for control stick and flaperon handle. My goal was to to get enough put together to test stick throws and flaperon cable fitment. I did not bolt up anything other than finger tight. I still have to paint a lot of the parts anyhow. The flaperon cable system is really neat how it droops both the LEFT and RIGHT ailerons in unison as you pull the flaperon lever upwards. I will need to add about another 3 to 5 degrees of bend to the elevator control rod as it touches the seat tubing right under where your butt goes. Chris said to bend as needed with no heating needed. I think the material he provides for the control stick (aluminum tubing) is much longer than I will need, its a matter of personal taste for each pilot. I even put down the aluminum floor board and seat pan sheeting and climbed in and sat down with the stick in my hand for the 1st time. And NO!!! I did not make any silly airplane noises during the entire time I was seated there. (sorry)

I really like building at this stage, since I am getting to know every nut, bolt and washer that's going on this plane. I dare the FAA inspector to challenge me on the 51% rule. I am touching every part here. Here is my temporary setup.

Here is picture showing the entire cockpit area, all that is left if for me to assemble the throttle lever that goes just in front of the flaperon handle.

For those of you that are waiting for your kit, I can assure you that you will figure it out when you start out. I was beyond overwhelmed when I started on my kit, but after solving a few mysteries you get the hang of it. Posting questions here has been a great help too and I plan to help out any way I can too. Its just a bunch of assorted parts that need to play nice with each other.

My only problem now is I need to install a vise on the workbench in the hangar to hold parts as I file, drill or bend as needed. No big deal.

Today would have been the perfect day for a test flight too. Light cool winds straight down the runway, sun at your back.