Windscreen Work
Posted: Sun May 14, 2023 7:44 pm
Inserted #6 aluminum nutserts (rivnuts) into the L-angle that serves as the rear attachment for the windscreen at the back of the cabin area. Note: if you use #6 (small) nutserts, using the inexpensive (~$16 Harbor Freight) combination pop-riveter/rivnut squeezer, be very careful not to over squeeze the tool. The poor quality of the small #6 mandril is such that you'll probably break the threaded mandril and Harbor Freight does NOT sell/provide replacement mandrils. I'm currently using my 3rd tool (albeit on 4 projects). The tool does seem to be better with larger diameter nutserts.
I marked-up my windscreen material with center-lines that I would match with cente-rline on the airframe. Then clamped the material in place, at first using the center-line of the L=angle at the rear wand the center-line projected up from the firewall at the front
I found that the overlap of the butt ribs was rather asymmetrical (1.25" on the port side and only about 0.25" on the starboard). I was at a loss until I heard from Peer who said he made his alignments using a line between the centers of the forward spar cutouts. This seems to really help. I will still need to do a fair amount of trimming of the edges at the fwd portion of the cockpit (near the panel) to fit into the "trailing edge" mounting stock, but Peer says he had similar experience.
I will also have do some trimming to the lower fwd area to match the curve of the cowling after the lower (mounting) sides of the cowling are extended with fiberglass. (I hope to further document that process as I get it done.)
I marked-up my windscreen material with center-lines that I would match with cente-rline on the airframe. Then clamped the material in place, at first using the center-line of the L=angle at the rear wand the center-line projected up from the firewall at the front
I found that the overlap of the butt ribs was rather asymmetrical (1.25" on the port side and only about 0.25" on the starboard). I was at a loss until I heard from Peer who said he made his alignments using a line between the centers of the forward spar cutouts. This seems to really help. I will still need to do a fair amount of trimming of the edges at the fwd portion of the cockpit (near the panel) to fit into the "trailing edge" mounting stock, but Peer says he had similar experience.
I will also have do some trimming to the lower fwd area to match the curve of the cowling after the lower (mounting) sides of the cowling are extended with fiberglass. (I hope to further document that process as I get it done.)