Badland Part 103 Pilots and Builders Forum

Good weather (high 60's to low 70's) so the covering process continues.

I use the small hobby iron (temp setting ~260 degrees F) to do the initial glue setting (starting at the starting at the trailing edge). Once secured, I make the cutouts through the fabric to accommodate the flapperon cable post, lift and jury strut attach fittings which protrude thru the Oratex. I will add reinforcement patches over these areas at the completion of the covering process.


I then work from the trailing edge with the hobby iron securing the fabric to the rib cap strips. When I get to the forward spar (leading edge), I'm able to pull the fabric around the spar and set the glue with the hobby iron. At this point the fabric appears very lose and "baggy" ("Maggie's Drawers"). I'm now ready for the shrinking fun to begin.



Using the Sentinel heat gun (temp setting ~370 degrees F) the fabric tightens nicely removing the sags and wrinkles. Remember to keep the gun moving! I use a glove on my left hand to help smooth the glued areas of the fabric. After covering the upper wing and finishing the tip and root areas, I will use the TOKO iron with the silicon paper to complete the shrinking process on the completed wing (temp setting ~140 degrees C).



I tried to get decent pictures of the fabric as it tightens around the 3D printed contours at the ends of the rib cap strips. They seem to work pretty well in smoothing the fabric fitting, but the pictures don't seem show them well.


This is the wingtip end rib contour before I complete the covering at the tip.


I also re-installed the empenage "flying wires" which I replaced with 3/16" aluminum rods with left and right hand clevis ends.

It's looking great!

Did you purchase the felt block to smooth out the fabric while working on edges and corners? It's very handy to make sure the glued areas are well pressed together during the heating and bonding process.

The felt pad works well and saves the thumb and fingers ... a glove really helps).

I really think 3 hands are required for the best results: one to hold the Sentinel gun, one to pull the fabric, and one to do the smoothing with pad or glove.

I agree. A third hand would have been nice for sure.

And "yes" on the glove. I forgot to put it on once while shrinking the fabric around a curve, and it was a lesson learned quickly.

Stay dry out there on the left coast.

So far so good, thanks! I think there is more rain expected on Sunday - hopefully today and tomorrow stay clear enough to get some more work done on the trailer. I expect to be able to get some welding done tonight...get the tail support finished!

Just an FYI Kurt. I'm not a fan of the red and blue material, but your work and layout is really super nice. I like it a lot! Great job man! Great Job!

Todd

I actually didn't think I would, but I do like the color scheme. I think it reminds me a little of the German WW1 fighter planes. But regardless, I am (like Todd) impressed with your covering skills!

Getting close to finishing the starboard wing.

I glued the 18" x 144" leading edge strip to the underside of the wing along the fixing tape line. Tomorrow I will flip the wing over on the workbench and do the same for the topside. Once done, I can then shrink taunt the sky blue over the leading edge/front spar. I can then finish securing the wingtip red fabric in place and then apply the white trim tape along the demarcation lines and around the wngtips ... completing the starboard wing.

I have extra hands this weekend so I hope to get the starboard wing remounted to the airframe.

Blue leading edge strip with glue applied (drying).


Underside blue glued along the fixing tape line'

Very nice. Is there any risk of pulling the line (between the blue and red) out of being straight when heating and shrinking? I always wondered what was required to keep it straight.

I ran the TOYO iron over the beast at 130 degrees C. That's a pretty stout temperature according to the manual.

LA F2 Flyer wrote: ↑Fri Feb 09, 2024 2:04 pm Very nice. Is there any risk of pulling the line (between the blue and red) out of being straight when heating and shrinking? I always wondered what was required to keep it straight.

Good question as I intend to go with dual colors as well.

Todd

Tape lines still look straight and i plan on the 20mm white demarcation tapes. That should keep the edges straight and crisp. Tapes. Arepre-glued and expensive.

They always get you on the little thing

Todd